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Laila Peak in Hushe Valley near Gondogoro Glacier is in Karakoram range and is 6,096 meters (20,000 ft) high. It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters.
It has been climbed by Simon Yates among others. According to the local people in Hushe, Laila peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have submitted.
The height of the Laila peak in Hushe Valley is controversial. Some believe it to be 6200 meters whereas some mention it as 6614 meters. In a Japanese mountaineering map by Tsuneo Miyamori (published in 2003), the height of Laila Peak is mentioned as 6096 meters.
In the summer of 2005, the first ever ski attempts on Laila Peak were made by Fredrik Ericsson and Joren Aamot from Scandinavian countries. Although they could not reach the summit, they skied down the North-West face of the peak. They described it as “one of the most amazing mountains they have ever seen, like a needle it points straight up in the sky”.
Frederik and Jörgen reached the base camp of Laila Peak (4150 meters) on June 18, 2005, and they were at Camp1 (5000 meters) on June 22. They made their first attempt to summit on Friday, June 24. They started climbing from 5000 meters at 2:30 am and after seven hours of climbing when they were only 100 meters from the summit, they realized that it was too icy to continue, and started skiing down on the North-West face of Laila Peak towards Gondogoro Glacier.
Islamabad International Airport
Day 01: ✈ ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD – CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu.
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – HUSHE: jeep drive to Hushe
Day 07: HUSHE – SAITCHO: Trek to Saitcho
Day 08: SAITCHO – BASE CAMP: Trek to base camp.
Day 09-23: Base Camp: days reserved for climbing Laila peak.
Day 24: BASE CAMP – HUSHE: trek back to Hushe.
Day 26: HUSHE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu.
Day 27: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 28: CHILAS – ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 29: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 30: FLY BACK✈: Embark your international flight.
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